Idebenol®**: A Better Idea in Cosmetic Chemistry
~Dr. Daniel B. Mowrey, Ph.D.
Introduction
For decades, experts in the fields of dermatology and cosmetology have been striving to create procedures and products to satisfy the growing skin care needs of an aging population. The goal, obviously, has been to discover how to sustain younger, healthier looking skin. As anyone knows who has used currently available products, most are long on hype and short on science. However, that is all about to change. Recent breakthroughs in the chemistry of damaged and aging skin have revealed the ways and means to actually help counteract the skin’s aging process and repair damaged skin. Idebenol® was formulated expressly to incorporate the best of the emerging science.
Furthermore, Idebenol was conceived in part because it has become fundamental in the skin care industry to achieve quick results. Increasing the rate of skin renewal has become the hallmark of the anti-aging movement. Improved skin renewal agents bring with them a wide variety of improved skin properties. The cost of targeting skin rejuvenation has often been an increased likelihood of skin irritation. Idebenol promises and delivers increased skin firmness, increased density of the epidermis and dermis, and clinically improved skin surface in as little as two weeks.
The amazing benefits of Idebenol are the result of combining the most effective ingredients available in amounts shown to be clinically significant to support each and every promise made for this unique product. Idebenol users can be assured that clinical results have shown that ingredients in this product improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles, increase skin smoothness, improve skin moisture content and reduce skin dryness, roughness and flakiness. These results are achieved through the following actions: decreasing trans-epidermal water loss; repair of the skin’s barrier function; significant protection against UV radiation; marked anti-oxidation; reduced irritation through better emulsification; reduced melanin synthesis; increased collagen synthesis; skin hydration; improved elasticity; and increased firming.
This may seem like a great many properties for a single product to deliver, and it is. In the following paragraphs you can read how it is done. First, we will discuss the major clinical findings that tell what we can expect, and then we will present supporting details that tell us more about how those results are achieved.
Improving the Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles
Improving the appearance of skin lines and wrinkles has been shown to occur quickly in response to the application of a new, proprietary material derived from oceanic (marine) sources that is naturally rich in low molecular weight polysaccharides and glycosamino glycans that have been complexed under low ionic conditions with urea. This mixture is a natural exfoliating complex that–through activation of both epidermal and dermal cells – improves cell renewal and increases the production of hyaluronic acid and collagen. In a double blind clinical study, 20 subjects, between the ages of 45-65, were instructed to apply the 3% key complex cream to their faces twice daily for three months. Five additional volunteers applied a placebo cream. The application of the glycosamino glycan complex for one month produced a 32% improvement in the appearance of lines and wrinkles as assessed visually by the investigator according to accepted, published standards (p < 0.05). By the end of 3 months the treated subjects had experienced an average of 57% improvement (p < 0.05). Image analysis confirmed that the clinical scores reflected a reduction in wrinkle depth and number. No significant changes were observed in the placebo-treated group (less than 6% at one month and 8% at three months).
Even more remarkable were the results on skin smoothness. In just 2 weeks, skin smoothness had improved by 33% with application of the active ingredient in Idebenol, and this figure rose to 41% after 4 weeks (p < 0.05). To measure smoothness (or roughness) a stylus is moved across the surface of the skin (like a phonograph needle across a record); it dips into every crevice, wrinkle and line, measuring the depth in millimeters. With repeated scanning, eventually a 3-D image of the skin surface is generated. This sensitive and highly calibrated process provides a very accurate measure of change over time. The results of the two studies reviewed here provide concrete clinical evidence for the ability of this mixture as found in Idebenol to improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles to increase the smoothness of the human skin.
Skin Firmness, Elasticity and Hydration
Skin firmness drops about 40% between the ages of 25 and 65. The ability of skin to rebound from, for example, the pressure of fingers touching it is therefore reduced. Using a special technique known as ballistometry, researchers have found that the application of the mixture of marine glycans contained in Idebenol® twice daily for 12 weeks in a double blind placebo-controlled study results in a significant improvement in skin firmness. A rapid 23% increase is observed after just one month (p < 0.05). The scientists conclude that these kinds of results occur as the result of positive changes in the underlying layers of the skin, specifically the dermis.
Idebenol® contains other ingredients that affect firmness. One of these is beta-(1,3)-glucan. Beta-glucan is a multifunctional active substance complex based on purified natural yeast cell walls and is especially suitable for the production of cosmetic skin-care preparations. Some of its effects are almost immediate, while others are experienced after regular application. Because it has a high water-binding capacity due to its helical structure, its application results in almost immediate hydration of the skin, which leads with regular use to a pronounced improvement in skin elasticity and firming with a simultaneous smoothing of wrinkles. In one study, 5 female volunteers applied the substance on the inner side of one forearm and a placebo cream on the other twice a day for 14 day. After 7 days’ application a 15.7% increase in the skin moisture content was obtained on the treated side, which rose to 28.1% after 14 days (the placebo side only improved by 8% after 14 days). Whereas the skin firming of 8% was achieved with placebo, skin firming/elasticity of 32.4% was achieved after treatment with the beta-glu-can.
Many of the effects of aging and the use of improper skin-care ingredients on the skin involve the loss of water content. Dryness, chafing and loss of elasticity result. Hence, a primary goal of skin care is to help maintain normal moisture levels. Idebenol contains other ingredients shown to improve skin moisture content. In one study, the application of the marine-glycan mixture (introduced in our discussion of lines and wrinkles) to the facial skin of 10 female subjects improved skin moisture content by 44% after one month (p < 0.05), and by 51% after three months (p < 0.05). No significant changes were observed in the placebo-treated group (less than 7% at one month and 8% at three months). In the field of skin moisturizers, these are considered outstanding results.
Idebenol also contains another moisturizing ingredient which acts through a different process. This ingredient is described as a patented cosmetic ingredient containing 90% unsaturated fatty acids, 5% phytosterols and 1% natural vitamin E. The unsaturated fatty acids and phytosterols included oleic acid, linoleic acid, beta-sitosterol, campesterol and gamma-7-stigmasterol. The compound is obtained from a select species of sunflower oil by molecular distillation. It acts by replenishing the skin’s lipid barrier. In a human clinical trial, this powerful extract was emulsified and applied to the skin of adults with “atopic” skin, i.e., very dry with squames (skin flakes). Compared to a no-treatment control, the application of the active compound resulted in an immediate and long-lasting improvement in hydration to the outer layers of the skin. There was a 48% moisturization gain at the end of 1 hour which increased to 64% at the end of 3 hours (p < 0.05). After 24 hours, the effect had dropped to 34% and during the next 4 weeks had stabilized at 22% (p < 0.05).
Combining all forms of moisturizing agents together in Idebenol assures rapid and sustained gains in moisture content of the skin, resulting in a highly desirable improvement in the feel and appearance of the skin.
Skin Dryness, Roughness and Flakiness
Human trials on the feel of the skin have been conducted using the sunflower extract described above. In one of these studies, an emulsion of the extract was applied to human skin explants of a 29-year-old woman. After 18 hours, measurements of cerebroside, ceramide and cholesterol levels were taken and compared to levels in non-treat-ed skin. Levels of these substances were elevated 42%, 200% and 100% respectively. This represents a significant improvement in the condition of the skin. In another double blind, placebo-controlled study, the emulsion was tested for four weeks on 18 women aged 20-28 with atopic skin (key emulsion on one site, placebo on another). At the end of the study, results were measured by both the research director and a panel of independent observers. According to the director, there was an average reduction in skin dryness of 55%, in skin roughness of 52%, and in skin flakiness of 54% as compared to the placebo treated site. The panelists estimated improvements by 60%, 55% and 60% respectively (p < 0.05). Based on results of the two studies reported here, the researchers concluded that the application of the patented, proprietary sunflower extract to people with atopic skin resulted in 1) a significant moisturizing effect on the upper layers of the skin, 2) a structuring of the skin’s micronetwork, 3) a clear reduction in dryness, roughness and flakiness, 4) an improvement in the skin’s aspect, and 5) efficacy and tolerance acknowledged by a dermatologist.
In the above paragraphs, we have reviewed clinical research on the ability of Idebenol’s active ingredients to improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles, increase skin smoothness and firmness, improve skin moisture content and reduce the appearance of dryness, roughness and flakiness. Idebenol also contains a supporting cast of ingredients that support and augment the primary main mixtures. How all of these work together to counteract aging and other destructive influences on the skin will be discussed next.
Protein and Collagen Synthesis
An explanation for how the marine glycan complex improves the firmness of the skin was found in a series of experiments using skin fibroblasts to determine how that complex compared to other materials in its ability to stimulate the synthesis of protein and collagen. It was found that the marine glycan complex outperformed other materials, even the highly respected reference material transforming growth factor (TGF). Collagen synthesis increased by 168% compared to 90% for TGF, 10% for lactic acid and 2% for retinol.
Clarification and Exfoliation
One of the more important functions of the skin is the rate of renewal, that is, the time it takes for a skin cell to mature, slough off the skin surface and be replaced. As the skin ages, the rate of renewal decreases from about 15-20 days for a 30 year old to about 30 days for a 70 year old. The rate of renewal is routinely taken as a measure of relative rejuvenation ability. A great deal of cosmetic research is devoted to improving the rate of renewal. It is widely believed that long-term increases in cell renewal rates can result in skin rejuvenation. The ability of Idebenol® ingredients to affect renewal rate was assessed by applying the complex to the forearm of mature subjects (average age 67 years) and comparing renewal rates to untreated young adult subjects (average age 29 years). The average length of time for skin renewal in mature subjects was decreased from 24.1 to 18.6 days. The average renewal rate in young adults was 16.6 days. Hence the complex significantly closed the gap between the young and old subjects.
Closely related to the rate of renewal is the rate of exfoliation. In one test, after two weeks’ application of the marine glycan complex, a significant increase (21%) in exfoliation was observed, which remain highly effective over the four-week trial period (23%). Similarly, after one month skin clarity increased by 34% and by 45% after three months. Clarity is a complex factor relating to skin luminosity and skin color. Clarity is often described as the overall appearance of the skin.
Barrier Repair
One of basic considerations in sustaining healthy looking skin is maintaining the ability of the skin to repel irritants, reduce oxidation and retain water. Thus the skin forms a “barrier” to keep out unwanted factors and keep in desired factors. A healthy functional barrier is essential to youthful, healthy looking skin, and unhealthy skin is created by a loss of barrier function caused by environmental stress, hormonal changes, nutritional deficiencies, common cleansers, systemic abnormalities and age, among other factors. In the presence of a dysfunctional barrier, irritants can penetrate the viable skin and can cause a number of skin ailments, disorders and dysfunctions. In addition, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) can be increased. As TEWL increases so does irritant penetration, which in turn creates sensitive skin, characterized by erythema, edema and dryness. Free radical activity exists just beneath the surface of the skin leading to the formation of enzymes that break down collagen and elastin, evidenced by wrinkles and slackened (unfirm) skin.
The most common cause of barrier dysfunction is the breakdown of the lipids in skin cell membranes which normally work together to minimize TEWL and promote barrier function. These lipids include fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterol, cholesteryl esters and phospholipids. They can be either directly stimulated in the skin (as we described earlier by applying Idebenol, which led to an increase of 42%, 200% and 100% in the skin cerebrosides, ceramides and cholesterol levels respectively), or these lipids may be combined together and incorporated into a finished product referred to as a barrier repair complex (BRC). Dermatologists and researchers have observed excellent results in restoring and maintaining the skin’s barrier function with regular, topical application of BRC-containing compounds. Long-term application of a BRC is believed to allow the skin to correct itself to a normal moisture balance and content.
The BRC found in Idebenol comprises complexes of purified linoleic acid, beta sitosterol and 97% pure isolated phospholipids, all derived from plant sources. One clinical study found that the application of BRC twice daily for one week produced a 10% reduction in trans-epidermal water loss, which shows how quickly these complexes can be incorporated into the skin. In an age in which speed of activity is becoming ever more desirable, the importance of providing a strong BRC complex should not be underestimated.
UV Protection and Antioxidant Activity
While the news might be full of warnings against too much exposure to the sun, the benefits of sunshine are also touted and the attraction of sunbathing is hard to resist. Hence, to an ever greater extent, skin-care items incorporate substances that help reduce the harmful effects of UV radiation on the skin. In fact, it is not an exaggeration to say that protection of the skin from UV light damage is probably the most important function a skin-care product or cosmetic ingredient can deliver with respect to inhibiting the visible aging process. Whether one is exposed to direct or to indirect UV light, there exists a chance of damage to the skin at the visible, cellular, molecular and sub-molecular level. Every day UV light penetrates the skin, generating free radicals, oxidizing cell membrane lipids, denaturing structural cellular protein, damaging enzymes, depleting natural cellular protectants, compromising the skin’s immune protection, damaging DNA and eventually killing cells (apoptosis and peeling).
Idebenol® contains a number of protective agents (including sources of anthocyanins, ferulic acid, caffeic acid, polyphenols and hibiscic acid) working via different mechanisms to create a multi-faceted complex capable of enhancing the ability of the skin to protect itself. This complex has been investigated in two series of tests.
The first series of tests demonstrated that the complex protected skin cells against UV radiation damage, and peeling did not occur. (When low-intensity UV light [sunlight] penetrates the skin, cells get damaged and, with continued exposure, the cells die and peel off.) In the low dose test, the active complex provided 100% protection, while 33% of the cells died without the complex. In the high dose test, the complex provided 67% protection versus a 12% survival rate of control cells. In all of these tests the active complex outperformed vitamin E, grape polyphenols and green tea extract.
The second series of tests demonstrated that the extract was effective in clinical evaluations of micropeeling (subclinical peeling). In these tests a dose of UV is given at about half the level necessary for real clinical peeling. The active complex was 100% able to prevent micropeeling, while the control was less than 60% effective. SPF-15, 5% vitamin E, and 5% green tea provided less protection than the active complex. It was also shown that the active complex demonstrated a 95% inhibition of cytochrome C oxidation. The closest rival was green tea at about 65% inhibition. Other tests confirmed the ability of the active complex to scavenge singlet oxygen radicals, hydrogen peroxide, hydroxyl radical and superoxide at a rate much higher than competitive molecules. Finally, under severe oxidative stress conditions wherein there were no surviving control cells, the active complex still provided a protection of 66%. Competing molecule activity ranged from about 22% to 40%.
To summarize, all of the above tests demonstrate the ability of Idebenol compounds to dramatically inhibit the damaging effects of UV radiation to the skin.
Conclusions
Anticipating the increasing demand for better and safer skin care products, Idebenol comprises the very best ingredients available. Clinical research affirms the ability of these ingredients to make a substantial impact on the appearance of aging human skin. Consumers can expect to observe improvements in the appearance of lines and wrinkles, in the smoothness of the skin, in the absence of dryness, roughness and flakiness, in the hydration or water content of the skin, in improved barrier functionality, and in resistance to UV damage. In short, Idebenol helps maintain younger-looking skin.
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